Saturday, 14 November 2015

Of TEDx and Paris

I take a break from not writing about my time in Paris to post something more important that, coincidentally, has to do with Paris as well. Coincidences are fun! Who knows when I'll actually post a "Part 2" of our time in Paris...probably never, I feel like that ship has sailed and is never coming back. But anyways.

Today, I attended my very first TEDx event. As far as I know, TED events are dedicated to “ideas worth spreading” through a conference style event with speakers delivering talks on a certain theme. This year’s theme for TEDxVancouver? ID, or identity. To me, and certainly many others, identity has been, is, and will continue to be one of the most relevant topics as we navigate our lives daily to define ourselves. Who am I? Who are we?



Identity has always been a very important thing to me and is something that I think about frequently. What have I experienced? How has this impacted how I see the world? How has it impacted the shape my world takes? How do I behave and in what ways does this influence my perspective? And, ultimately, how do these all fit together to form my identity? A lot of what I study involves dynamic processes, or change. So for me, getting to attend an event dedicated to ideas surrounding identity, an inherently fluid thing, was exciting.

It is sad for me to confess that TEDxVancouver was not all that I’d hoped it would be. Don’t get me wrong, there were a lot of very cool and interesting, thought-provoking talks delivered by inspiring speakers. A wide range of topics was covered, from sex economics to trans inclusivity to cannabis production (yes, I’m serious). I learned a lot of cool things. But I can’t shake the disappointment I felt as a result of things that, perhaps for some (or many), might seem minute or nit-picky. And yet, I’ve got to talk about them.

As a person born and raised in BC, but most especially from my undergraduate years, I’m accustomed to, and indeed have come to expect, the acknowledgement of any event taking place on the unclaimed and unceded territory of the local indigenous peoples. Throughout my undergraduate degree, I became more aware of the importance of this acknowledgement by settlers, this acknowledgement of the sovereignty and integrity of indigenous peoples from whom this country has benefitted from unequally. And so, with such a prestigious event as TEDxVancouver, I was very surprised that no such acknowledgement took place. The opening live performance was by Smokey Valley, a local indigenous drum group, and one speaker, Michael Nicol Yahgulanaas, is a Haida man hailing from Haida Gwaii, so clearly the event included indigenous peoples. So why not the official acknowledgement?

Another defining feature of TED events is the intermingling of attendees and the promotion of social discourse amongst them – the passing on of ideas. One of the ways that TEDxVancouver sought to encourage such discussions was by organizing attendees into “tribes” based on their answers to a 7-question personality survey we had to answer when buying our tickets. Seems reasonable enough – with the theme of identity and the natural human tendency to want to cluster together, it makes sense that with 3500 participants, it’s easier to facilitate conversations by grouping similar personalities together. The logic makes sense. The terminology does not. I tweeted my concern about the use of this term, to which the official TEDxVancouver account replied that they are using the dictionary definition of the term, which is “a social group with commonalities”. This is all well and good, until you consider who writes dictionary definitions and the cultural significance that “tribe” has for many peoples. Since the times of colonization, words like “tribe” and “band” have been appropriated, bastardized, and warped until there is no longer an obvious relationship between their “new” meanings and their culturally significant ones. In fact, these words have been used to lock indigenous peoples in a historical vacuum wherein they are viewed through a condescending lens. To many cultural groups, “tribe” holds a specific, culturally significant meaning, and to use this same word to simply mean “a social group with commonalities” can be considered offensive. Why not just “clusters”, “groups”, “factions”, or “packs”? For an event centred on the concept of identity, I expected more.


Of course, throughout the event, numerous speakers recognized the terrible events that occurred in Paris the night before. How could they not? In less than 24 hours, every single social media platform, televised news program, and news outlet has been over-run with tributes to the victims of the attacks in Paris. Just now, a Sportsnet anchor talked about how many NHL teams observed a moment of silence for Paris before their games tonight, and some even played the French national anthem. I admit that I myself wrote post after post expressing my horror and heartbreak for Paris, especially as the attacks in the 11th arrondissement took place so very close to where I had spent part of my summer. Paris is a city that I love dearly. The entire afternoon, as I sat in one of my graduate seminars, all I could do was follow the Telegraph's live blog on the events. Later that night, I posted a tweet saying "Mes pensées avec tous ceux qui est à Paris, en France". And yet, how easily we forget (and ignore) similarly horrifying events unfolding in other parts of the world, in places that don’t look like ours. Beirut, Lebanon. Baghdad, Iraq. Bombings occurred in both of these locations, but not one post on my Facebook or Twitter newsfeeds gave any notice of this. But I’m not surprised. After all, it was just last year when the Charlie Hebdo attack took place in Paris, when we all proclaimed “Je suis Charlie!” in solidarity and support of…the French? The Western world? Liberty and democracy? And yet, hardly any news outlets reported the massacre in Baga, Nigeria of potentially over 2000 people that occurred that very same week. I saw not one social media post claiming solidarity with Baga, no proclamations of “We are all Baga!”. Thus, the complete absence of public support for Beirut and Baghdad is actually kind of predictable.


But why? Because when horrific attacks happen in places that look like Canada, like the U.S., it reminds us that it could happen to us. If places like Paris can be attacked, then so can Vancouver. But when extreme violence happens in places “over there”, we aren’t as worried, because we don’t identify as much with people from “that side” of the world as we do with Parisians, because they don’t look like us, they don’t act like us, they don’t “share the same values”. And when we finally hear of these events taking place, we might perhaps feel horror, maybe even guilt at not knowing what to do, but eventually this subsides into thoughts that tell us, “that’s their problem, not ours”. There is the danger of writing it off as an occupational hazard of their “backwardness”. There is a danger in viewing their religions and cultures as inherently violent. This breeds hostility, destabilizes society, and threatens to make already occurring problems even worse. Think of the Syrian migrant crisis happening right now. Think of the lines people will and are drawing between the Paris attacks and plans to bring in refugees. Our societies become more unstable and xenophobia will be heightened. Where does that leave us…what are we to do? And how does this relate to identity? What does it mean when we declare our solidarity with Parisians, but not Beirut or Baghdad? What does it mean when people like Barack Obama declare the Paris attacks as “an attack on all of humanity and the universal values we share”?


Who gets included in this “humanity” and who is pushed to the margins?

Thursday, 20 August 2015

La Belle Paris, Part 1

27 July to 9 August

Currently writing this on the train from Barcelona to Paris! All three of us are on the same train, but Alex is in economy while we are in first class; when we booked the tickets way, way back, the first class tickets were either €1 less or more than second class, so we decided to do it! When Alex booked, however, the tickets jumped to €144!

First class meant we got access to a fancypants lounge with free coffee/tea/juice/beer and snacks as well as comfy seats and wifi. Apparently, it also means suffering through 6.5 hours of annoying kids constantly bolting down the aisle to their parents or grandparents who were sitting behind us. Bolting, and using my chair to grab onto to stop at the row behind us. Literally, at least twice a minute. I was very, VERY tempted  to stick an arm or foot out. Not only this, but older kids kept constantly coming back and leaning over my seat/grabbing it to talk to their parents. I swear to god. I didn't pay €100 for this BS. I have very little patience for kids like this and parents who are incapable of teaching their kids to be respectful on planes or trains. 

Headed to Paris!
ANYWAY, the train ride itself, annoying kids aside, was pretty good. The first class seats were super roomy and comfortable, unlike most of the trains we've taken on this trip. The views were also not bad; we traveled along the Mediterranean coast from Barcelona to the south of France, then headed North to Paris. The French countryside is pretty picturesque...wouldn't mind spending some time there! 

We arrived about 30 to 40 minutes late, which is great considering we've been on trains delayed for up to 3 hours. I guess punctual trains are not a thing over here haha. Once we arrived at Gare de Lyon, we rushed to figure out the metro to get to the flat we rented out and meet our host.

AirBnB: Success
Our flat is absolutely adorable. It can't be more than 20 square metres but the space is used efficiently, with the bed in a loft space above the sitting area, a foldout dining table, lots of storage units, and with the bathroom under the building's stairs (we're on the ground floor), a sink installed in the door.

Why we love it:
1. Privacy and having our own space: it's definitely nice to be able to spread our stuff out and actually taking the time to unpack clothes from our bags since we're here for nearly two weeks. It's nice knowing that no one else has access to your things.
2. Kitchen: I guess this kind of goes with the above, but I am so happy we have a kitchen that's only ours. Almost every hostel has had some sort of kitchen with varying capacities, but after having our food stolen from the common fridge in London, I just didn't trust anyone else enough to leave food in common areas anymore. Now, we have our very own fridge and can fill it with as much as we want without having to worry! 
3. Cheaper than a hostel: our flat is in a pretty decent location (at least I think so), straddling Le Marais and République, but Paris is very well-connected by metro so even if it wasn't, it wouldn't be a big deal. But I'm pretty sure that for the location, plus the amount of privacy we have/want, we would be paying a LOT more in a hostel. The difference is that you have to pay upfront for an AirBnB reservation (to AirBnB, who then transfers it to the host upon your arrival), so that's something to keep in mind if you're in a toss-up between hostel or AirBnB.

That's all for now, I'll write about some of the things we did in another post, as I'm NOW back home in Canada and this seems like a good place to split things up.

A view of the kitchen from the loft
The door to the flat; underneath the loft is a little sitting area



Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Barcelona - Gaudi, Paella, Beaches

21 July to 27 July
Leaving Lisbon and our hostel was probably one of the saddest parts of our trip, we loved it there! But I was excited to get to Barcelona, I didn't get to explore it as much as I wanted 3 years ago. The flight with TAP Portugal was pretty good, we even got free sandwiches and drinks, which surprised us because exactly zero flights we have taken (including the ones from Canada) gave us anything. I'm thinking it's because TAP is Portugal's national airline...the flight was only $163 CAD for the both of us, sweet!

Barcelona was like Rome - very hot and humid. Boo. But I don't think it was as bad as Rome, though it was getting there. At least there were beaches! Our friend Alex, whom we met up with in Rome (sorry for not mentioning you in that post!), met up with us 2 days after we arrived for some new adventures!

Hostel 1: Gracia City Hostel
Originally, we wanted to use AirBnB in Barcelona, but it ended up being expensive and no one was taking reservations as early as we were booking. So to compromise, we booked a private room in Gracia City Hostel, which looked pretty nice and had excellent reviews online. However, you shouldn't always trust the internet. It was VERY expensive for what we were getting, which was essentially a small room with a wardrobe, a double bed, and a door that only locked if you tugged hard on the door. Otherwise, you can just push the door open, awesome. On top of that, there was a 5% charge for paying with a card. There were shared bathrooms, but no big deal, I've lived in uni rez and am used to shared bathrooms. Except these bathrooms were severely inadequate. The toilets were more or less clean, but there were 2 stalls for women and 1 for men, for the entire floor. As far as I knew, we were the only private room and the rest were dorms, so that's a lot of people for 3 stalls. The showers were dingy and disgusting; only one stall locked out of four on the floor and the floors were gross. I accidentally dropped my towel while trying to hang all my stuff up, which usually isn't a big deal other than some water, but when I picked it up it had brown muck on it. Super gross. The kitchen was alright at first glance, but there were loads of flies around the sink, so that cut short any plans to cook for ourselves! They wanted €10 to do our laundry and we read that there's a chance they won't even do it on time. Overall, a very bad experience and we were rather unimpressed with the staff, although the girl who checked us in was pretty agreeable. 

So that's our first hostel nightmare out of 7 weeks, which is pretty good I think. But we acted fast. After two nights, we decided we didn't want to suffer through the next four and went to get the remainder of our money back. It went off without a hitch and we immediately sat down to book another hostel close by, Generator Barcelona, which we had heard of before. We had walked by it earlier that night and decided that it looked amazing and, even though we wouldn't have a private room, it would be so much better. I'm quite proud of how we dealt with the issue , actually. Adulthood!

No pictures because I just wanted to get out of there!

Hostel 2: Generator Hostel Barcelona
About 400m away from the first hostel, it is LEAGUES ahead of it in terms of everything. We first had a 6-bed dorm with a private toilet and shower for 2 nights, then the same the next 2 nights but with 8 beds. There was AC, hallelujah, and we could do our own laundry for €3 for a wash and dry each. The lounge/hangout areas were amazing (stocked with couches, chairs, SWINGING chairs, and beanbags) and the staff were so friendly. We had arrived at 11am but check-in was at 2pm, but they kept our bags and let us hang out (and even let Meg shower) while we waited to check in. The bar/restaurant had great food as well, so if we were too lazy to go anywhere, we'd just eat there. The only negative would be the slow lifts and the fact that they were quite small, but I was happy to deal with that haha. The second room we stayed in was mostly boys, which wouldn't normally be bad, except every time we walked into the room it was probably 90% fart (Pitch Perfect 2 reference, woooooo). Not even room spray could save us. There was also a nightmare roommate who would NOT respect that others were sleeping at 3am and blundered around the room rudely, and then snored loud af and denied the rest of us sleep. Rude. Very glad to be out of there, but obviously not the hostel's fault! 

The lobby of Generator; only one of the two hangout places. The other was upstairs and had couches, computers, a pool table, foosball, and darts. 

The ceiling of the bar! 

Park Guell: disappointing
Park Guell was one of my favourite places in Barcelona 3 years ago, but not so much anymore. It's a beautiful park with great views of the city and some very eccentric planning by Gaudi, the famed Catalan architect with an affinity towards colourful mosaics and weird shapes. All of the park was free 3 years ago and for the previous century, but it's now charging 8 euro to even get in to see Gaudi's work. The rest of the park is still free, though. I read later that apparently tourism is the only industry working for Spain, so they have to capitalize on that. Which, okay, I get it, but still. I feel like works of art that were intended to be free (such as a PARK) should remain so. It was a bummer, I really wanted to show Meg where Gaudi intended a marketplace to be and the mosaic iguana, but not for €8 :(

Sagrada Familia: yas 
Barcelona may be one of those places where I'll actually admit to liking its typical tourist sites. So, yes, La Sagrada Familia is one of my favourite places, at least in Barcelona, to visit. There's just something about seeing a building that's been in the making for over 130 years, I guess. It was more expensive this time round (re: capitalizing on tourism), but this time I got an audio guide, which I think was worth it. But going at 7:15 was not worth it because the basilica closes at 8-8:30, so we had to rush a little. I don't really want to write everything I learned about the basilica because it would take up so much space, so instead I'll just say that regardless of your religious beliefs, you should definitely visit this basilica to just marvel at its unique architecture and design. It is certainly a work of the generations, as each new generation has and will have the chance to contribute to its construction, whether that be from visitors or from the new workers toiling hard to interpret Gaudi's instructions or guidelines in their own way to complete the massive structure according to his vision.

The Nativity façade 

Beautiful windows inside, made of Venetian glass! 

Barceloneta Beach: yas
3 years ago, I spent most of my time at Platja de la Marbella, which is east of the city centre and much less busy since I believe that's sort of the "new" area of town. I did get to see a little of Barceloneta, the main beach, but never went because I heard it was always too busy. So, wanting to check it out, one of our beach days was spent here! When we got there, it wasn't too busy, so we scoped out a good place to lay our blankets down, applied some sunscreen (sun protection ain't no joke, kids), and headed straight for the water. My first time in the Mediterrannean! It was lovely, and a lot warmer than the Atlantic water in Lisbon. The sun was hot, hot, hot. I got a good tan. Alex burned. I'm not sure about Megan, I think she got a tan too. The beach was definitely a lot fuller when we left, so we struggled to not kick sand in anyone's face as we made our way back to the street.

Parasols galore at Barceloneta! 

Old Town: Wandering El Born 
I also didn't get to see a lot of the old town last time, so this was awesome! We were mostly in the El Born region, though we wandered a bit into the Gothic Quarter and El Raval later on. I just love the narrow roads, the shops lining them, and looking up to see apartments with clothes hanging to dry. It's something you never see at home or maybe in most of North America. Perhaps it feels like a simpler place? 

3 years ago, I was on a really cool motorbike tour that dropped Tiff and I off in El Born in front of an archeological site, which was all covered up. It didn't even cross my mind until we were walking along and I saw this very giant, very clean and pristine looking building that was the El Born Cultural Centre. Inside the building, which has a highly vaulted ceiling and lots of glass and metal in its structure, are the ruins of 17th century El Born. There are foundations of buildings and one big house that was occupied by a fairly noble family. The building is built on top of the ruins, which are sunken down, allowing the building's floor to be built around them to act as balconies from which you can peer down. There are also panels where you can read about the ruins as well as the 1714 succession of Spain over Barcelona and Catalonia, which I had no clue about beforehand. Best of all, all of this was free! And I like free. I feel like it's important to mention that Barcelona is the capital of Catalonia, which is an autonomous region and they don't really like Spain. So much so that they speak Catalan normally, not Spanish, though Spanish is still understood and spoken. 

Sadly no pictures of the ruins but here's a cool cut bottle from the café in the cultural centre; 1714 was the year of Spanish succession.

We went back to The Old Town later that day for dinner and split a veggie paella between the three of us and had some tapas at Tapatxi, in the Gothic Quarter. It looks pretty similar to Venice's cicchetti, but I think the latter is much better. 

Tapas all lined up 

My picks!

Metro
I liked Barcelona's metro much more than Rome's (the last place we used public transport) because it doesn't stop running at 9:30 (what the heck, Rome?!) and you can buy a multi-person 10 trip card for €10, which means both Meg and I could use the same card for €1/trip instead of €2,15 for a single ticket or €32 for a 5 day ticket. Overall, the metro was really good: the trains were reliable and fast and it was easy to navigate. But there are always some snags.

Most of the metro stations have more than one entrance. Enter the wrong one? Walk 300000 miles and 80 staircases to get to the right line. Have a 10 euro note to buy a €9,95 10 trip pass? Hopefully you get a machine that takes notes! It is TOTALLY random, I guess they don't keep the machines of the most used mode of transport stocked with change. That makes too much sense. If there aren't any machines that take notes, better hope another entrance has one! I feel like there's also the perpetual smell of B.O. on the trains. It could be because it's hot and sticky outside, or that there's zero ventilation in the tunnels so you sweat while you wait for a train despite being so far underground that your ears pop, but either nobody wears deodorant or deodorant is useless in the Barcelona heat.

Paella
Hands down my favourite part of Spanish cuisine. Paella is a rice dish, made with meat or veggies, and is totally delicious. We had paella a grand total of 3 times, seafood twice and a veggie one once. Seafood paellas usually consist of clams, mussels, prawns, and squid. So delicious. They tend to be on the pricey side (though we didn't really go to any local places, just the ones catering to tourists), about €15 per person or per dish. 

Paella near La Sagrada Familia! 

Our last paella was on our last night in Barcelona near Barceloneta beach at Hispano Restaurant. We were super hungry after walking from Platja Nova Icaria (about 2 or 3 beaches over). They had a deal, which was a house salad, paella, and 1/2L sangria for €16,50. Alex and I ordered the seafood paella while Meg got the veggie, but when our food came out, both seafood paellas were made in the same pan while Meg's was by itself in a smaller pan. Not really a big deal, but Meg's single veggie paella was visibly larger than the two portions that Alex and I got out of our pan. You'd think that the dishes would be the same size, but apparently not? We complained but I don't think they got it. Not that we weren't full afterwards, but it's the principle! This will henceforth be known as "The Paella Incident". 

Tourist shops: DON'T 
I don't usually go into tourist shops precisely because their stuff is marked up so highly, but on this trip we've kind of had to because we've needed to buy postcards, patches for our bags, and whatnot. We had a really bad experience on our last night so I'll just recount that here. 

After the Paella Incident, we needed to hit up a tourist shop for patches and a sweatshirt for Alex. We went into the one we wandered into the day we went to Barceloneta beach because it was our last chance! 

In short, the men working there are awful. So pushy, annoying, rude, ignorant, and would not leave you alone to browse. The other day we were in there, I saw a shirt I kind of liked, and the guy said it was €5. Not bad. But I wanted to check out some other shops before buying that one. When we came back, suddenly it was €12. For a tank top. A rather thin tank top, while the hoodie Alex was buying was also €12. Yes. That makes sense. I told the man (a different one from last time) no, that it was too expensive, and of course he then offered €9,90. I then told him that the other day, the other man (who was badgering Alex and Megan) told me they were €5. He stared at me, as if waiting for me to change my mind (no chance, dude), and when I didn't, he said "maybe you are a bit..." and gestured with his hands, implying that I was stupid, crazy, or very unreasonable at best. And you know how I LOVE sketchy guys who work in tourist shops judging my level of intelligence. I'm surprised I didn't explode on him, actually. I continued to say no and went to stand by Alex and Meg, who were trying to decide what hoodie to buy, but the guy followed me, had the shirt crunched up in his hand, shoved it into mine, came super close to me, and creepily whispered that I could have it for €8. I literally said, "Nah, man, it's too much, I don't want it." He got visibly angry and threw the crumpled shirt back onto the shelf. As Meg and I stormed out, the same guy who offered me €5 the first day called out that, "okay, you can have it for 5." Of course. So we go back in just to buy the stupid shirt when this guy starts whispering to come back tomorrow because their boss was there and they couldn't sell it for €5 right then. Super sketchy. And not worth even half the trouble they caused us. So we left again, very annoyed and very rattled. It PAINS me that we gave them any sort of business by buying the patches, but it was our last chance. Sigh. 

I'm ready to come home, I think. Hopefully Paris will be more enjoyable and relaxing. 

Another thing I wanted to mention but have little to write about are Gaudi's other creations in Barcelona, Casa Milà and Casa Battlò, two apartment buildings on Passeig de Gracia that are as beautiful as they are strange. I hoped to go into one (both house museums in addition to actual apartments) but it didn't end up happening. Maybe next time? 

Casa Milà by night; the roof is meant to look like a dragon's back with its ridges.

Casa Battlò by day; an oceany wonderland, the balconies look as though they are made of kelp or seaweed. 


Friday, 17 July 2015

Lisbon, the city of hills, cobblestone, and tuktuks

16 July to 21 July 

Thank the stars above! We've made it to a much more manageable climate and we're loving it! Once we touched down in Lisbon, it was hot, but not nearly as unbearable as Rome, Venice, or even Prague. It was about 32 degrees, but that very morning in Rome it was 30 degrees with 50% humidity, so while it's  technically hotter in Lisbon, we ain't sweating through our clothes anymore, which is always a plus. 

(Fun fact, we literally did sweat through all of our clothes in Rome and had them washed in Lisbon. We are overjoyed at having clean clothes again)

Goodmorning Hostel, 65 Praça dos Restauradores
Our hostel is absolutely top-notch. The reviews online were stellar, but we finally got to experience it firsthand. First off, amazing staff. They're so nice and helpful and always asking if you need anything. As soon as we walked in the door, one of the staff, Tatiana, gave us a "Welcome home!" and it was then that we knew this place was special. The staff clean your clothes for you for only €6 (AND they fold them, what???), run walking tours, city tours, cocktail/sangria nights, dinners out with the staff,and tapas nights for their travellers, AND make an AMAZING breakfast, which is included with your stay. Now, every other hostel we've stayed at with an included breakfast had minimal offerings: toast, cereal, coffee, and fruit if you're lucky. But at Goodmorning, hell nah. They do. not. mess. around. The online reviews don't lie: their butter-coated, freshly made waffles are to die for. Slather them with some Nutella and I'm pretty sure one could die happy right there and then. Additionally, they whip up fried eggs, grilled paninis with cheese and tomato, cereal, toast, coffee and juice, tomatoes, cucumbers, and apples. And there's always a staff member in there cooking from 8-11am to make sure all the food is fresh! How neat is that?? 

The perfect way to start everyday in Lisbon


Comfy hangouts


Tuktuks
I think these nifty little vehicles are actually Thai, but Lisbon seems to be full of them! I never thought I'd be in one, thinking they were for silly tourists who are too lazy to walk, but man, Lisbon is as full of hills and unevenly cobbled streets as it is with tuktuks. For good reason, I suppose. SO, after a particularly long walk up steep inclines to get to Castelo São Jorge (St. George's Castle) one day, we saw the tuktuks all lined up and figured we'd ask how much it would be to get a ride down. At €15, it seemed like an alright deal. 

WELL, let me tell you. First, the ride started off smooth. Then, we got stuck behind a tourist van for a few minutes. When we finally got around to it, our driver really let the cobblestones have it. And by this I mean he RIPPED down the narrow streets, turning left and right, honking his little horn, all the while yelling "WOOHOOOO!". He barely slowed town to turn corners, so I thought we were definitely going to flip. These things have a crazy tight turning radius! I wasn't sure whether to be concerned or amused so I alternated between muttering "oh my god" and laughing my head off. Once at the bottom of the hill, the ride was once again smooth, mostly because the streets had more cars in them. But when we hit traffic, he decided to turn and take a side street, nearly hitting pedestrians in the crosswalk as he did so! A few minutes later, we're on the main road, driving more or less in line with typical driving rules. Except when he decided he'd let 'er rip again and tear through a pretty big crosswalk with pedestrians who definitely had the right of way, laying on his horn to clear a path through them. Uhhh, what just happened?!?! Oh, and at one point he didn't want to wait for the light to change, so he just took the area reserved for pedestrians known as the sidewalk. No big deal, right? 

The ride was well worth the money, and I hope those pedestrians have recovered from the near-death experiences...though I'm not sure I have. 

Belèm
A region within Lisbon that we visited was Belèm, about 20 minutes west of the city center. Hop on the 15E tram from Praça de Figueiro to get first dibs on seats! Day tickets for the metro/bus/tram are only €6 (plus €0,50 for the rechargeable card), so it's well worth it. Plus, you can just go for a few hours, go home, and take transit elsewhere later in the day if you feel like it! Worth noting is that you can only recharge the card once the previous limit has expired. For example, if you buy a 24 hour day ticket, you can't recharge until 24 hours has passed. Confusing and a little difficult, but at least the cards are only €0,50. The tram takes you right to the monastery in Belèm, get off here! You can't miss it.

For €10 we visited the Jerónimos Monastery, which was okay. The architecture and church were absolutely beautiful and it was interesting to walk about the grounds (I think it's called a cloister? Such an odd word...) and a few rooms that the monks used in the monastery's 500 year history. I thought there would be more to see, though. There was a permanent exhibit room that had a timeline of the monastery alongside those of Portuguese and world history, which was really cool. Another room was the tomb of Alexandre Herculano, a prominent Portuguese scholar and intellectual. We also saw the ancient Refectory, which is where monks ate their meals while reading scripture. Lastly, we saw the massive church attached to the monastery, including the upper choir balcony. A few weddings were happening so we didn't want to wait in line to be let in after they were done, but we could see in from the upper balcony just fine. That's pretty much it. I'm not sure what the monastery is used for today (not even Google could give me a good answer), but it must be something or else I'm sure the whole thing would've been open to the public. The place is just huge! All I know is that the monastery was abandoned in 1834 and made secular...further digging to be done, apparently.

The cloister

After the monastery, we wandered about a minute down the road to Pasteis de Belèm, a renowned bakery famous for their Portuguese custard tarts. The pastry was invented by the monks at the monastery before the 18th century, but when it closed down in 1834, the recipe was sold to a sugar refinery. It was the owners of the refinery who opened up this bakery in 1837 and their descendants still own it today! Evidently, they're still going strong - they sell over 20,000 tarts a day! We waited in line for about 15 minutes before we ordered 6 of these famous pastries to take away and eat in the park across the street. They were delicious - the custard sweet and the pastry crunchy yet also soft. Very different from the dan taat, or egg tarts, back home! After hearing my sister rave about them ever since she was in Portugal years ago, I finally got to have a taste for myself. Nom.

Mmmmm

Other than that, we just wandered around Belèm. We saw the Torre de Belèm, but didn't go in. The water is gorgeous and it's a treat to walk along it and get the nice breeze from the ocean, especially on a hot day. Along the way is the massive Discoveries Monument, representing the bow of a ship carrying prominent figures from the 16th century. Belèm (and Portugal) was a major place from which voyaging ships would leave Europe to "discover" new lands abroad. In fact, the main role of the monks at Jerónimos was to pray for the King's eternal soul and for the seafarers' voyages to be successful - they did this for 4 centuries. The monument is beautiful, colonialism aside. 

Sintra 
Another region under the municipality of Lisbon, Sintra is a half hour away from the city centre (and a return ticket is only €5). Also, unless you want to pay for food at cafés or restaurants, buy snacks from a supermarket in Lisbon and bring them with you! Cheaper and more convenient. In Sintra, we bought tickets for the 434 bus that takes you on a circuit around the place, from the train station, to the Villa, Moorish Castle (Castelo dos Mouros), Palácio da Pena, and back down again. The bus ride itself is a little scary; there are a LOT of switchbacks slog a pretty narrow road, but somehow the bus manages. You can opt to walk up to the sights but it's quite a trek. I recommend only doing so if you're quite fit (and wearing proper footwear).

The Moorish Castle was so. cool. We spent at least an hour and a half wandering the grounds, a good portion of which is free before you have to buy a ticket (only €8). The history is amazing, and you can tell that minimal restoration has occurred, so it all LOOKS quite old, but well taken care of. It's on top of a massive hill in a heavily forested area with giant boulders sticking out everywhere. As I walked through it I definitely got some Rivendell vibes. I was diff in' it. Understandably, it was built and used continously as a lookout post. There are covered areas where there have been archeological finds from the original Muslim inhabitants, artifacts from the Bronze Age, and a Christian necropolis/tombs built all on top of each other. Very cool. As well, you can climb all the way up to various lookout points, but be prepared with comfy shoes. The lookout points were just gorgeous. The castle is built so high up that you get a perfect panorama of the region as well as a nice breeze coming off the ocean. Lisbon itself actually has quite a nice climate so even though it's hot, it's not uncomfortably so and you often get a breeze coming in to make up for it. There are little information points as well along the paths, some of which inform you about the particular piece in front of you. My favourite were the big holes seemingly gouged into the boulders on the ground, used as silos or storage for foodstuffs like grains and legumes from long ago. 

Bumble doin' his thing 

You could also go a bit underground, down into where there is still archeological research occurring on a Muslim house built into the fortress, as well as the original cistern that provided fresh water to the fortress since the beginning and never ran dry. There's still water down there, though I'm unsure whether it's from the same water source.

After the castle, we didn't really want to do anything else. The bus also drops you off at the Palaçio de Pena, but it cost €12 to get in and I wasn't up for more walking hahaha. So we continued on until we reached the Villa with all its little shops and restaurants. We wandered a bit through the winding streets, ducking into the odd shop, but we got hungry. There's a lot of restaurants to choose from, and they all have their menus out on display, so take your pick! We chose a place that had codfish and seafood soup (I think it was called Ristorante Taverna or something), which I've been dying to try since we got to Portugal. If you can't tell, I love seafood. The place was nice, service was meh, but the soup was so good! It came in a bread bowl which is always fun. It was full of cod, mussels, shrimp, and possibly other things I missed due to devouring it all. We also ordered the codfish fritters, which were delicious! Crunchy and full of flavour. After that, we hopped back on the bus, caught our train, and headed back home! Easy peasy.

A little bit blurry but here's the food!

Caparica
We wanted at least one beach day in Lisbon, and we got it! Originally, we were going to go to Cascais, which is where a lot of people go, but we asked Tatiana where the best beach was and she told us that she prefers to go to Caparica, which is southwest instead of west of Lisbon. We bought return tickets for the Beach Bus (coolest bus ever), which had two other stops in town before heading to the beach. The drive was beautiful as we went over the very large Ponte 25 de Abril, a bridge that looks a lot like the Golden Gate in San Fran. The view from the bridge was very pretty, with bright blue waters underneath us! 

The cool bus!

Going over the bridge! 

The bus dropped us off right at the beach and would pick us up in the same spot later in the day. We headed to the beach and a) the sand was beautiful, b) the beach wasn't too crowded, and c) there was a little café/bar where we wild definitely relax later. We set up our blanket and bags reasonably close to the water, slathered ourselves in sunscreen, and laid down to catch some sun for the next few hours. It wasn't too hot because Lisbon has this constant glorious breeze from the water, even in town! Once we did get hot, though, we took to the water. The ice cold water of the Atlantic. There was a whole lot of NOPE from me, but the next few times we went in, it got a lot warmer or at least more bearable (weird). The waves were awesome and it was cool to not have to watch your feet to make sure you didn't step on any barnacle-covered rocks, aka FEET SLICERS. Playing in the waves on a Portuguese beach is definitely my idea of a good way to end a visit to Lisbon. 


To end the day, ice cold Somersby ciders and some food to recharge our energy while we waited for the bus to pick us up. 

We're just about to check out of this amazing hostel (wah) and get ready for our flight to Barcelona this afternoon! Can't wait to be back in that crazy city :) 

Until then!

Wednesday, 15 July 2015

Rome, the Eternal City

10 July to 16 July

If Rome is eternal, then I think I'll try to enjoy it another time.

Overall, I really didn't like Rome! So much so that I have refused to write in my journal about it the entire time we've been here. There are of course some really, really cool things about Rome: its thousands of years of history, the ancient ruins, and the many landmarks and monuments scattered about the city. They are all beautiful, and even the ruins have a sort of beauty in their disarray. 

In fact, we might have enjoyed Rome a LOT more had it not felt like 40 degrees Celsius with the humidity outside! The entire time we have spent in Rome outside of our bed and breakfast, we had been just drenched in our own sweat. How very uncomfortable (and unclean!).

Even so, there were a few things we had to do. We bought tickets to wander the Roman Forum and the Colosseum - I feel like these are the obvious sights to see while in Rome. At only €12, it wasn't a bad deal and we got to see the remnants of a place lost in time. But, because of the heat, we could only last about an hour under the blazing sun in the Forum before we had to retreat back to where we're staying. We were inside the Colosseum for perhaps half an hour; there isn't much to see without an audio guide or an official tour, so all we did was wander around the ground and 2nd floor reading some info cards about some remnants of the Colosseum's past. We also got to walk around the inner part of the Colosseum, the part that looks out over where the battles and "games" took place. It really is a huge structure and an architectural marvel. We passed the half hour doing these things in-between ducking in and out of the shade we could find. Again, because of the heat, we did a lot of our sightseeing in Rome in much the same way.  



The Roman Forum
The Roman Forum 



The Colosseum - very impressive structure 

Underneath the floor of the Colosseum

We also went to Vatican City, because you can't go to Rome and not go there, right??? We lined up to enter St. Peter's Basilica, which of course was out in the big square and in direct sunlight. Luckily the line moved quickly and we made it in within 15 minutes. Finally, we could get some respite from the sun, although we had to cover up our knees and shoulders to do so out of respect to the holiness of Vatican City. Which means I was wearing a long sleeve button-up for the 15 minutes we were in the Basilica, which meant that I sweated not only through the tank top I was wearing, but also my coverup shirt! Super, sweaty, sticky mess. This is essentially all we did in the Vatican. It would have been awesome to wander around more within the smallest country in the world, but it was just too dang hot! We definitely would not have made it out feeling very well if we tried. 

St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican - the only building we went into

We tried to beat the heat by going out in the evenings, but it lingered quite late into the night. However, this was when we did a lot of our wandering, when it was at least a bit more tolerable. During the night we went back to the Colosseum (a few times) and the surrounding area, Castel Sant'Angelo, and wandered the Spanish Steps area on the prowl for dinner and gelato.

Also: are ALL Italians rude as hell or is it just the ones in Rome?! I never really understood the stereotype of Canadians being polite but holy crap, it's so true. If you're at a cross-walk, make sure you wait for a break in the neverending line of cars because NOBODY stops for you to cross! It doesn't even matter if you're away from the city center and the droves of tourists - they won't even stop for one person! So I just started stepping out and staring drivers down, being all, "go ahead, hit me ya Italian jerkface". And IF they slow down, sometimes they'll try to swerve around you if they've got room. The amount of times a car has gone ahead and turned through a crosswalk even though the walking signal is green is unbelievable. Cars have jerked to a stop literally a foot away from me as I'm crossing and I've gotten so tired of it that I stare them right in the eye and challenge them to be even more of an ass. 

The rudeness extends to people walking on the street as well. PICK A SIDE TO WALK ON! Don't weave and make yourself seven lanes wide! And for the love of God don't stop right in the middle of the sidewalk/road. In the metro, I always thought it was commonsense (and more efficient) to let people leave the train before trying to board. Well, apparently not in Rome! They just shove their way through, come hell or high water, they're making it onto that train. But man, come on, how do you expect to get into the train if we can't even get off with you blocking the way?! 

ALSO!!! The amount of pervy leering from men is atrociously disgusting. Today alone, we (well, Meg at least) were on the receiving end of very obvious and very gross staring by a COP in the metro station as well as a dude on his dinky little Vespa, who felt the need to CROSS traffic and stop right in front of us, as we waited for the walk signal to turn green, and yammer at us in Italian, which we angrily ignored. 

What I did like: mostly food
We had a lot of pizza and pasta, but nothing really screamed "DELICIOUS" to me, which is a little unfortunate. I've kicked two GREAT food experiences that have made our trip to Rome a little less disappointing. 
1. WOK Asian rice boxes from Termini Station
The first time we went here, we were just dying for lunch on our way home from the Roman Forum. We were tired and sweaty and wanted nothing more than our air-conditioned room, but we knew we needed food so we stopped and ate, and sweated all the while. BUT! This place in Termini is AWESOME! So awesome that we have eaten there a total of 3 times in the past 3 days and have both gotten the same thing each time: Holy Basil Chicken fried rice for Meg and Thai Yellow Curry with shrimp for me! I'm actually eating it right now and I'm so happy. We've had a lot of luck with Asian food on this trip, actually. 
2. Gelato
We've gotten a lot of slush drinks and gelato/ice cream while we've been in Italy, and Rome is no exception. We've got to beat the heat somehow! Our favourite place is Giolitti, located near the Spanish Steps and Piazza di Spagna. It's 115 years old (not sure whether if has always sold just gelato and sweets), and has a massive variety of gelato flavours as well as Italian ice and pastries. The first time Meg and I sat down there was to take advantage of their A/C...we ended up ordering a banana split that was pretty dang good. The next time we went, I got a cone with raspberry and pomegranate and it was so, so, SO good. The pomegranate was on point and tasted exactly how it would if you were chewing on the seeds themselves - tart and acidic and yummy. The raspberry was also very, very good. Probably the best gelato I've had this entire trip! Not overdone with sugar and entirely refreshing. 

Amazing banana split

Well, that's it! Tomorrow we leave for Lisbon, Portugal, and we are very excited to be in a cooler climate with a beach within reach!